Asphalt Driveway Paving

The base and the subgrade come first

Asphalt is flexible, so it needs a strong base underneath to carry traffic without cracking or rutting. The contractor excavates soft or unstable soil, adds compacted aggregate in layers and checks the grade so water runs off instead of sitting under the pavement. Cutting corners here leads to cracks, ruts and potholes within a few years. Ask how deep the base will be, whether tree roots or utilities affect the plan and how the new driveway will meet the street and the garage slab.

Thickness, rolling and temperature

A typical driveway uses two and a half to three inches of compacted hot-mix asphalt, with more thickness for heavy vehicles. The mix must be hot when laid and compacted with a roller before it cools. Cold weather or poor timing can leave weak spots. The edges are shaped and tapered for neat transitions to the street and garage. Make sure vehicles stay off until the asphalt has cooled and hardened. Ask the contractor to describe how the asphalt will be compacted and tested for thickness, and how the edges and apron at the street will be finished.

Sealing, cracks and long-term care

New asphalt benefits from a curing period of several months before it is sealed, because oils in the mix need time to harden. Sealcoating every few years protects against sun, water and oil, and cracks should be filled promptly before water gets in. Avoid parking heavy vehicles in one spot on hot days, and keep drainage clear and edges supported with soil or gravel. Regular maintenance can double the life of a driveway. Keep vehicles and heavy loads off during the first days, and watch for low spots that hold water after the first rains.

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