Service Guides

How to Fix a Leaky or Dripping Faucet (and When to Call a Pro)

The NorTech Team Β· March 20, 2026 Β· 7 min read

A faucet that drips once a second can waste thousands of gallons a year, and that steady tick-tick-tick at 2 a.m. is enough to drive anyone out of bed. The good news is that most dripping faucets are caused by one or two inexpensive worn parts, and a patient homeowner can often handle the repair in under an hour.

This guide walks through how to fix a leaky faucet the right way, the tools you will need, the mistakes that turn a small job into a flooded cabinet, and the honest line where it makes more sense to call a pro. NorTech is a Bay Area platform that connects homeowners with independent, vetted, background-checked, insured providers, so if you decide partway through that you would rather hand it off, you can.

First, find out why your faucet is dripping

Faucets drip for predictable reasons, and the fix depends on the type you have. Before you touch a tool, figure out what is going on.

  • Cartridge faucets (most modern single-handle and many two-handle models): a worn cartridge is the usual culprit and the most common faucet cartridge replacement.
  • Compression faucets (older two-handle, separate hot and cold): a worn rubber washer or seat is almost always the cause.
  • Ball and ceramic-disc faucets: worn O-rings, springs, or seals.
  • Drip at the base of the spout, not the tip: usually worn O-rings rather than a cartridge.

Tools and materials you will need

  • Adjustable wrench and a set of hex/Allen keys
  • Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
  • Channel-lock or slip-joint pliers
  • Replacement cartridge, washers, or O-rings that match your faucet brand and model
  • Plumber's grease (silicone)
  • White vinegar and an old toothbrush for mineral buildup
  • A rag and a small bowl, plus your phone to photograph each step

Step 1: Shut off the water and plug the drain

Reach under the sink and close both supply valves (turn clockwise). Then open the faucet to release pressure and confirm the water is truly off. Stuff a rag in the drain or close the stopper so no small screws disappear down it. This one habit prevents the most frustrating mistake in the whole job.

Step 2: Disassemble the handle

Pop off the decorative cap on the handle (a flat-head usually pries it loose), remove the screw underneath, and lift the handle off. Take a photo at every stage. Below the handle you will find a retaining nut or clip holding the cartridge or stem in place.

Step 3: Replace the worn part

Pull the cartridge straight up (some need a small puller). Bring the old part to the hardware store rather than guessing; a faucet cartridge replacement that is even slightly the wrong size will leak worse than before. For compression faucets, swap the rubber washer and inspect the brass seat for pitting. Smear a little plumber's grease on new O-rings before seating them.

Step 4: Reassemble and test slowly

Reverse your photos to rebuild the faucet. Turn the supply valves back on gradually while watching for leaks under the sink. Run the faucet, then check the base and handle. If the drip is gone and nothing weeps below, you are done.

Nine out of ten drips come down to a five-dollar part. The trick is matching it exactly and not overtightening on reassembly.

Common mistakes that make a leak worse

  • Overtightening the retaining nut or handle, which cracks plastic cartridges and crushes O-rings
  • Guessing at the replacement part instead of matching the brand and model
  • Forgetting to clear mineral buildup, so the new cartridge seats unevenly
  • Reefing on a stuck cartridge with pliers and snapping it off inside the valve body
  • Turning the supply back on at full blast and missing a slow drip behind the wall

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When to stop and call a pro

DIY is great until water and corroded plumbing turn it into a bigger project. Call a professional if the shutoff valves themselves leak or will not close, if the cartridge is seized into a corroded valve body, if you see water damage inside the cabinet, or if the leak is coming from a supply line or the wall rather than the faucet. Anything involving cutting into pipes or soldering is a pro job. If you are weighing the cost and risk, our guide on DIY vs hire a pro lays out how to decide.

When you book through NorTech, the repair carries a 30/60/90-day workmanship warranty on the labor performed. If something covered is not right, it gets made right at no charge. You can also browse faucet repair and replacement to see what a matched provider handles.

Related home services

How do I stop a faucet from dripping without replacing the whole faucet?

In most cases you do not need a new faucet at all. Replacing the worn cartridge, washer, or O-rings stops the drip. Shut off the water, disassemble the handle, match the worn part exactly, and reassemble without overtightening.

What does faucet cartridge replacement usually involve?

You shut off the supply, remove the handle and retaining nut, pull the old cartridge straight out, install an identical replacement with a little plumber's grease, and reassemble. The hardest part is matching the exact brand and model.

Why is my faucet leaking at the base instead of the spout?

A leak at the base of the spout usually means worn O-rings rather than a bad cartridge. Replacing the O-rings and greasing them on reassembly typically solves it.

Is leaky faucet repair worth hiring out in the Bay Area?

If the shutoff valves are corroded, the cartridge is seized, or there is water damage under the sink, hiring a vetted, insured provider is the safer call. Booking through NorTech includes a 30/60/90-day workmanship warranty on the labor.

Ready to stop the drip for good? Get matched with a vetted, insured Bay Area provider.

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